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Lanark County Tourism
Jul 06 2009

Rideau Maple Byway Tour

Following the War of 1812, in an effort to improve the defences of Upper Canada against another attack from the United States, the British government ordered Lt. Col. John By of the Royal Engineers to build a secure, military supply route linking Montreal and Kingston. What resulted was a chain of 47 locks at 22 lockstations linking two river systems over 200 km between the Ottawa River and Lake Ontario to form one of the largest slackwater canal systems in the world. Dams, blockhouses, and defensible lockmaster houses were also a part of this massive building project that took a mere six years to complete. In 2007, during the 175th anniversary of the Rideau Canals completion, UNESCO honoured the waterway with a World Heritage Site designation.

Following the War of 1812, in an effort to improve the defences of Upper Canada against another attack from the United States, the British government ordered Lt. Col. John By of the Royal Engineers to build a secure, military supply route linking Montreal and Kingston. What resulted was a chain of 47 locks at 22 lockstations linking two river systems over 200 km between the Ottawa River and Lake Ontario to form one of the largest slackwater canal systems in the world. Dams, blockhouses, and defensible lockmaster houses were also a part of this massive building project that took a mere six years to complete. In 2007, during the 175th anniversary of the Rideau Canal’s completion, UNESCO honoured the waterway with a World Heritage Site designation. While the Rideau never saw military service, it quickly became an important commercial artery, integral to the development of communities between Kingston and Ottawa. Today, it is a popular recreation destination, offering something for everyone—charming towns, sparking waters, natural wonders, rich history. Follow the canal builders along lake and river, from quiet lockstations to vibrant communities, taking the time to dally, whether at the many shops, restaurants, golf courses, farmers’ stands, or unspoiled pockets you’ll discover along the way.
The tour starts and finishes in Smiths Falls; approximately 200 km.

While much of Lanark County saw no settlers until after the War of 1812, a few intrepid United Empire Loyalists, beginning in the 1790s, chose to venture into the wilderness to stake claims at prime water power sites along the Rideau River as payment for their services to the crown during the American Revolution. Thomas Smythe of New York was one such individual, and although he made no improvements to his land, his name became attached to the set of rapids eventually tamed by the Combined Locks and the town that grew around them. Smiths Falls owes much of its development to first the Rideau Canal and then as a divisional point for the CN and CP railways, with mills and factories establishing themselves to take advantage of the excellent transportation links. This heritage and more is remembered in dedicated museums, and are well worth a visit.

Begin your tour alongside the Combined Locks at Victoria Park, in the centre of town. Head south on Lombard Avenue, turning right onto Abbott Street to cross the river at Detached Locks. A distinctive feature of this lock is the raised bascule bridge, a rolling-lift railway bridge built in 1912–13 and used until the rail line ceased operation in 1984. It was designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 1983.
Turn left onto Hwy 43 west.
Turn left at Port Elmsley, where history and geography converge, revealing the unexpected. This small village on the Tay River was originally named Barbadoes, in honour of the birthplace of its founder Samuel Weatherhead, agent to Benedict Arnold. Arnold had received these lands as part of his reward for his efforts on behalf of the king during the American Revolution. Once home to three locks of the First Tay Canal, a private canal built by citizens in Perth (1831–34) to provide a vital link to the Rideau Canal, the village prospered as a mill site and forwarding community for goods coming to and from Perth. It fell into decline when bypassed by the Second Tay Canal (1880s), which avoided the long stretch of rapids here by excavating a dry cut from the river to Beveridges Bay on Lower Rideau Lake, and the rise of rail. Ruins of the old graphite mill can still be seen by the river.

Follow Port Elmsley Road (County Road 18), which passes over Beveridges Lockstation, the only locks on the Tay Canal, which is now a branch of the Rideau Canal.

Turn right onto Rideau Ferry Road (County Road 1) which, when it enters Perth, becomes Gore Street.

Perth was established in 1816 as the social, administrative, and judicial centre for emerging settlements back of the Front. The strict social code of the British military guided the settlement for many years, the most illustrious example being duelling, including the fatal duel of 1833 between rival law students over the affections of a local governess. The many elegant Georgian homes stand testament to the town’s early prominence, while its museums, shops, restaurants, parks, and festivals contribute to the town’s continuing popularity (web site for details).

After exploring Perth, backtrack on Gore Street to the edge of town. Turn right onto the Scotch Line (County Road 10), which was named in honour of the original Scottish settlers. The names on many of the mailboxes still reflect this heritage, as do the fine stone farmhouses that march down both sides of the road.

Turn left onto Stanleyville Road, which takes you into the only community in the historic township of North Burgess; note St. Bridget’s Roman Catholic church. Take Stanley Road out to Narrows Lock Road; turn right. Turn left onto Lally Lane, a windy road named in honour of an early settler, whose homestead has been preserved as part of Murphy’s Point Provincial Park. Also found in the park is the Silver Queen mica mine. Mining was once an important resource industry in the area, with surface pits still scattered across the landscape.

Follow Elmgrove Road, which provides access to Adam’s, Otty, and Big Rideau Lakes. At the intersection, turn right onto Rideau Ferry Road (County Road 1).

Although a bridge across this narrow stretch dividing Big Rideau and Lower Rideau Lakes has long since replaced the ferry, the spirit of John Oliver, the original ferryman, lingers. A known extortionist, thief and murderer, he controlled a vital stretch of the route for people travelling between Perth and Brockville until his own untimely death in 1832. Today, Rideau Ferry welcomes visitors, offering a wide variety of services to people coming by either land or water.

The Rideau Waterway marks the boundary between Lanark and Leeds Counties, and the remainder of the tour will involve criss-crossing back and forth between the two.

Across the bridge, Rideau Ferry Road becomes Lombardy Road, a pastoral route past farms and antique shops that ends at the village of Lombardy on Hwy 15. Turn left.A quick detour, left, onto Poonamalie Road will bring you to Poonamalie Lockstation, the first lockstation downstream from the Rideau Lakes. The stands of cedar reminded the Royal Sappers and Miners building the canal of the tiger bamboo forests they had seen while serving in India. And so they named it Poonamalie—which roughly translated means, “cat’s eyes peering through the bamboo forest.”

At Smiths Falls, follow Hwy 15 / Lombard Avenue past Victoria Park and Combined Lockstation, and through the intersection to Jasper Avenue. Until the 1970s, Combined comprised a flight of three lockstations and a low, swing bridge on Beckwith Street. In the spirit of modernization characteristic of the times, the three hand-operated locks were replaced with one hydraulic lock, and the swing bridge with a high, fixed bridge. It was the government’s plan to mechanize all 47 locks along the canal; however, a large, grassroots protest halted the scheme after only three had been “modernized.” Although completely disabled, the original locks can still be seen, as well as the defensible lockmaster’s house, with its stone first storey, and frame second storey. Turn left onto Old Sly’s Road, past Heritage House Museum and Old Sly’s Lockstation. Turn right onto Elmsley Street (Hwy 43). Although not accessible by road from this side of the river, Edmond’s Lockstation presents a charming picture off to the right.

Turn right onto Kilmarnock Road and Kilmarnock lockstation, which is distinguished by a king post truss swing bridge and a two-storey, stone defensible lockmaster’s house, the only one of its kind on the system. When insufficient funds prevented Col. By from building a blockhouse at each lockstation, he opted to build houses for the lockmasters with a solid stone first storey punctuated with gun loops from which they could defend their station.

Although construction on the canal occurred between 1826–32, a few intrepid UELs took up claims in this area as early as 1790, as a stroll through the cemetery at Wolford Chapel (1822) will prove.

Turn right onto County Road 17, to Jasper, which is situated on Irish Creek, once considered by Col. By as a possible route for the canal. Turn left onto County Road 16 to Eastons Corners, noting the red and white brick homes along the way, which are unique to this area.

At St. Lawrence Street, turn left to enter the village of Merrickville. One of the most charming communities on the Rideau Canal, with a profusion of shops, restaurants, studios, and B&Bs situated within walking distance of the locks, it was founded in 1790 by William Merrick, UEL. He quickly established a substantial milling enterprise here which, with the coming of the canal, grew into a thriving village with a variety of manufacturing industries taking advantage of the reliable water power and good transportation links. Remnants of Merrickville’s 19th century industrial heyday have been preserved by Parks Canada, as well as the blockhouse, the largest of four that Col. By built to defend the canal. Check (web site) for details on the many special events staged in Merrickville throughout the year.

At the blockhouse and main intersection, turn right onto Hwy 43. After crossing under the railway bridge, turn left onto Rideau River Road (County Road 23). Take your time while driving along this winding road to admire the many fine stone homes overlooking the Rideau River dating from the 19th century, as well as the McGuigan Pioneer Cemetery, Clowes, Upper and Lower Nicholson’s Lockstations, until you reach the left turn for Buritts Rapids. The last set of locks for 40km, the village was founded by brothers Daniel and Stephen Burritt, UEL, in 1793.

After crossing over to the north side of the river, turn left onto Heritage Drive (County Road 2).

Not all communities built along the canal prospered, as a quick detour to Andrewsville will reveal. Although a sizable village was laid out by its namesake founder, sales of lots and hopes for mills never reached expectations, and the community eventually became a ghost town.

At Merrickville, turn right onto Hwy 43 to return to Smiths Falls and the conclusion of your tour.

No. 6A—Upper RideauThis tour of the Upper Rideau can be done either separately or in conjunction with the main Rideau tour.

Instead of turning into Stanleyville, continue on the Scotch Line (County Road 10) to Westport. Just before descending into the village, take a few moments to visit Foley Mountain Conservation Area, and take in the panoramic view of Upper Rideau and Sand Lakes, as well as Westport, from Spy Rock. Foley Mountain also offers a picnic area, visitors’ centre, and hiking trails, which are a part of the 300km Rideau Trail, from Kingston to Ottawa.

Originally an Irish settlement, Westport offers much to explore on foot in the way of shops, restaurants, and accommodations. Check (web site) for a list of events staged throughout the year.

Take County Road 42 south along the south shore of Upper Rideau Lake to Newboro, and the summit of the Rideau Canal. Thousands lost their lives building the Rideau Canal, due to malaria, accidents, and other hardships. A hospital was built at Newboro to care for many of these injured and sick workers (Newboro was one of the most treacherous building sites, where an isthmus of solid bedrock was blasted to link the Rideau and Catarqui River systems), and they have been commemorated with a memorial in the cemetery located just before the village. Newboro lockstation has one of the four blockhouses Col. By built to defend the works, and one of three mechanized locks installed during a period of modernization in the 1970s. Today, Newboro is a pleasant place to stop, shop, and eat.

After leaving the village, turn left onto McCann Road; turn left onto Narrows Lock Road (County Road 14).

The Narrows, at four feet, is the smallest lift on the system, but the busiest, built specifically to raise the water in Upper Rideau Lake and, therefore, solve construction problems at Newboro. It also has a blockhouse.

Take care as you continue on the windy Narrows Lock Road. At Lally Lane, you can either turn right to rejoin the main tour, or continue back to the Scotch Line to conclude your tour.



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